A scenic road trip on the Norwegian coast of Helgeland
The Norwegian coast of Helgeland is well known in the country but much less among international travelers. It’s a shame, because it offers all that there is good about Norway: a beautiful coastline, mountainous islands, historic villages and towns, but with much less crowds.
An alternative route to the north
Most tourists heading north to Lofoten and Tromsø choose to take time-saving flights. Those who drive tend to take the E6 motorway, Norway‘s main north-south artery. Although it is direct, the journey is somewhat boring and it takes another nine hours from Trondheim to Bodø. Savvy travelers extend their trip and take the Fv17 instead, known as the Cystriksveien and the Helgelandskysten scenic route.
Nature rewards slow travelers with sites such as the Seven Sisters Mountain Ridge, Svartisen Glacier, and the world’s largest tidal maelstrom at Saltstraumen.
At 269 miles long, Helgelandskysten is the longest of Norway’s 18 designated national scenic routes. Allow much longer than your original plans suggest to complete the route from Holm to Bodø. There are six ferry crossings, countless scenic photo stops, and plenty of optional excursions worth taking.
Ferry crossings, ranging from just 15 minutes to an hour, provide a natural break from driving and require you to slow down and enjoy your surroundings. While there is no right way to end the route, allow at least a few days to fully appreciate what this part of the Norwegian coast has to offer.
The seven sisters
Perhaps the most famous landmark along the Helgeland coast is the mountain ridge known as the Seven Sisters on the island of Alsta. Created by glaciers during the last ice age, the chain of peaks along a busy shipping channel has long been an important landmark for fishermen and traders. Today the mountains are a popular hiking destination.
The island’s largest town, Sandnessjøen, is a good place to spend the night if you are attempting a hike. Just south of the southernmost peak is the historic Alstahaug, home to a 12th-century stone church and the Petter Dass Museum, which celebrates Helgeland’s most accomplished poet.
Breaks along the coastal road
In addition to ferry crossings, the route’s national scenic route status means that several rest areas have been built, many with fantastic views and interesting architecture.
The rest area at Storvika provides restrooms and service facilities for RVs, but this is the stone bridge most travelers stop for. Step over it and you will be greeted by an idyllic kilometer-long sandy beach.
Ureddplassen is the perfect place for a picnic. The stone terrace is below the road, keeping the peace so that you can enjoy the view of the mountains and the open sea. The wave-shaped toilet block blends seamlessly into the surroundings, while a small memorial is a poignant reminder of the many lives lost in this part of the world during World War II.
Speaking of war, the German occupation forces established Grønsvik fort in 1942. Today the remains of the fort and the modern museum provide an educational stopover about halfway along the Helgeland Coastal Route.
There are many more rest stops along the route, all clearly marked. Travelers looking to truly immerse themselves in the coastal culture of northern Norway should consider a few side trips, especially to the Vega Archipelago at the southern end of the route.
The cultural heritage of Vega
There are traces of human settlement on the Vega Archipelago dating back to the Stone Age. Despite an inhospitable environment, fishermen and hunters have worked there for over 10,000 years, thanks in large part to the demand for eiderdown eggs and down. The archipelago has become a Unesco World Heritage in 2004.
Another optional excursion is Torghatten Mountain near Brønnøysund, also on the southern part of the route. Torghatten is known for its distinctive natural tunnel through the mountain, which can be reached on a relatively easy hike.
Cycling and hiking
Flat and calm roads, plenty of places to stop for breaks and countless possibilities for excursions to the islands make the southern part of the route perfect cycling territory.
It is also known among long distance cyclists in Europe as part of the Norwegian Cycle Route 1 from Bergen to the North Cape, itself part of the European Atlantic Coast route known as the EuroBike 1.
The same goes for hiking, the relatively flat landscape around the mountains making the view from the peaks all the more interesting. Avid hikers can challenge themselves on the 3,471 feet Heilhornet or go from top to top on the Seven Sisters Range.